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    6. 行遍天下 7月號/2016 第290期

    行遍天下 7月號/2016 第290期

    Publisher 行遍天下 /宏碩文化
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    Released
    2016/07/01
    Language
    Traditional Chinese
    File format
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    Pages
    75
    ID
    72378
    ISBN
    17269636
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    • Intro

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    封面故事

    〈原味餐桌 花東海線的料理祕密〉
    「飲食」是理解一個文化最輕鬆有趣的方式,這次,我們要跟著海岸阿美族部落族人,用夏季食材來場原味辦桌,品嘗辣鹹苦甘裡的人生滋味。
    「要了解原住民的文化,從舌頭是最簡單的。」著有《台灣新野菜主義》一書的阿美族作家吳雪月曾這麼說,她長期投入野菜文化研究,將阿美族的飲食習慣、烹調方式記錄下來。生活離不開三餐,透過飲食,我們更能輕鬆理解原民的故事與文化。
    作家方梓在書寫野菜的著作《野有蔓草》中也提到:「阿美族人是最懂得吃野菜的族群,他們自喻是『吃草的民族』,拿來食用的野菜有兩百多種,所以才有『凡是阿美族經過的山,一定是光禿禿』這則笑話。」
    這次採訪,我們特別前進兩處海岸阿美族部落,分別是花蓮縣豐濱鄉石梯坪的港口部落,以及台東線長濱鄉的永福部落。兩個社區都靠海,各有不同特色,我們請在地人帶路,在石梯坪跟著復育海稻米的藝術家舒米如妮去採集野菜,跟著海王子伊佑安查捕魚去,然後入境隨俗,以在地的烹調方式,吃在地的新鮮物產。而在長濱,我們終於看到幾近失傳的海水煮鹽過程,鹽是飲食中最重要的調味,三餐之所需,竟要耗費七、八個小時的燒煮才能取得,更讓人對每粒鹽的得之不易,升起了溫柔感恩之心。
    阿美族多以水煮或碳烤方式處理食材,不過度烹調、讓食物的真味得以發揮,而海鮮料理的蘸醬則少不了鹽巴辣椒水,提味也去腥。最讓我再三回味的,則是野菜湯裡那「苦而回甘」的天然味。許多野菜都有苦味,懂得欣賞苦味的最大回饋,就是後頭緩緩出現的「回甘」,就連苦味也有滋有味。這點,阿美族人從小就理解。
    野菜在戰亂或糧食缺乏時,總被視為保命良食。經過這次採訪,我則體會到野菜絕不是窮苦象徵,這未經馴化、天生就豐厚濃縮的滋味,其實更有味,你只需要讓味蕾放心去享受。
    這次的原味辦桌,不論是野菜蔬食或是海鮮魚類,都透露著「簡單卻豐盛」的訊息,簡單的原味、豐盛的食材與人情,幾杯啤酒或糯米酒下肚,嘗過了在地人最日常的鹹豬肉,或是漬了鹽巴辣椒水的生魚片,彼此在心情上就有了聯繫與歸屬。吃飯的背後,永遠記掛著豐滿的人情,在我眼中,這群原住民朋友們,能夠靠自己的力量在大自然間安身立命、取自己所需,那才是最踏實且真實的人生滋味。

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    雜誌目錄

    10 編輯手記 Editor’s Page
    回到大自然的作息

    12 大城小事 Column
    海那邊的193 帶著祕境去旅行的意義

    14 自然行旅 Column
    盛夏之高山群蝶亂舞

    16 美味記憶 Column
    牛肉湯,關鍵的黃金10秒

    18 好食光 Recipe
    種新鮮香草這件事

    24 嘗食趣 Gourmet
    新概念創意菜 玩食材遊戲很文創

    34 職人態度 People
    許文鴻 以老台灣精神開創新居家生活

    車遊路線 Take a Drive
    42苗栗 三義山那邊,幸福的那一國
    46雲林 虎尾土庫豐收可愛農情
    52高雄 田寮真奇幻,登月球泡冷泉
    56宜蘭 堆積木搖珍奶玩心大發

    68 封面故事 Cover Story
    原味餐桌 花東海線的料理祕密
    ◆海味,太平洋是原住民的冰箱
    ◆野菜,採集土地的野性滋味
    ◆海稻米,風味與部落故事的延續
    ◆長濱鹽,大自然與職人的無間合作

    88世界旅行 Travel the World
    新加坡Fun鬆一夏 海洋假期最療癒

    94世界旅行 Travel the World
    搭貨梯玩香港

    100旅遊選書Selected Book
    愛台玩,觀光工廠

    108 That’s New旅遊新訊
    114 SHOPPING INFO潮敗情報

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    【本刊特色】
    全台唯一榮獲TripAdvisor知名國際旅遊網站票選台灣國人最愛旅遊雜誌。
    從台灣出發放眼國際,從旅遊切點進入,更多的是關注在地文化、人文故事、土地風景、休閒生活,塑造獨有的旅遊媒體態度。
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    Details

    Released
    2016/07/01
    Language
    Traditional Chinese
    File format
    PDF: Fit in large screen
    Provide Adobe DRM
    Provide PDF
    Offer DRM free license
    No
    ID
    72378
    ISBN
    17269636

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