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    5. 換日線crossing 2018年夏季號 千面東南亞

    換日線crossing 2018年夏季號 千面東南亞

    Publisher 天下雜誌
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    Released
    2018/05/15
    Language
    Traditional Chinese
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    Pages
    100
    ID
    124906
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    All Issues 換日線crossingFound 33 match

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    從台灣出發,循著季風與潮汐,來到不遠的東南亞11 國,看這些熱帶島國的子民們,
    如何從歷史的浪花中乘勢而起,找到自己的定位與方向;
    而台灣的年輕人們,又用什麼樣的創意與努力,與東南亞朋友們,展開新世代的島嶼對話......

    【搶先試閱】

    摩托車車隊的引擎聲響起,十來個人就這樣,浩浩蕩蕩沿著山徑前行,一頭鑽入雨林深處。崎嶇不平的路面,讓大夥佩掛在腰間的開山刀、鐵鋸和鐮刀不斷顫抖。



    那年我隨著一個研究計畫,在距離吉隆坡不遠的郊山地區進行短期的田野調查,訪談題材聚焦在客家人民間信仰和聚落發展。一個台灣來的學者,帶著我和另外一名大學生在村莊進行東南亞客家文化相關的採訪,大概讓當地人也覺得相當新奇。



    耳聞客家先人陳亞泉葬身在附近的山上,老師決定不妨上山找找看。人們說,陳亞泉和吉隆坡開埠功臣葉亞來兩人亦敵亦友,分別來自廣東省嘉應州和惠州。人們還說,19 世紀中,葉亞來受英國殖民者封為「華人甲必丹」(Kapitan Cina)統轄吉隆坡,而陳亞泉嫌棄吉隆坡地處低漥又不易防守,帶領數百部眾來到天然資源豐富的呀吃山。



    不久後,吉隆坡蓬勃發展,成為馬來半島的首善之都。而陳亞泉的選擇,成了當地客家人茶餘飯後的津津樂道的奇聞軼事:就是他!寧願在交通不便的山坡地種榴槤、波羅蜜,卻沒看見吉隆坡的大好前程。



    然而,陳亞泉的墳墓究竟確切在哪裡,村裡的人也不曉得。當地村長個性豪邁、樂於助人,在大街上所開設的餐廳總是擠滿了客人,店內飄出一陣陣燒臘和糯米雞的香氣、電視機大聲播放著香港或台灣的新聞。他聽聞尋找墳墓的提議,決定大方協助,號召一群村裡的中堅份子一同上山尋覓。經過一番打聽後,請來了自稱看過墳墓的老人指引去路,還請來山區部落幫忙種榴槤的原住民青年(orang asli)開路。



    轟轟乍響的摩托車隊沿著山徑挺入,老師、學長和我3 個人,分別坐在不同的摩托車後座。到了山區高地,經過許多礦湖,像隕石坑一樣不規則點綴在地表上。這是過去開採錫礦留下來的痕跡,錫礦產業在馬來西亞從19 世紀初便在殖民勢力的推廣下茁壯。事實上,礦業聚落的分佈也標示者著客家人在南洋的足跡,不論是馬來半島的吉隆坡與雪蘭莪、印尼的邦加島、勿里洞島、乃至於婆羅洲西側的伸甸、山口洋,早期皆因為礦業的發展吸引大批客家移民──圍繞著南海的最南端。



    我們來到礦湖區的邊緣,看見更高聳的雨林和通往山區礦坑的小路。大夥拋下摩托車沿著小路走,一路上舞弄著開山刀,擊退不斷進逼的植被。遇到陣雨,就用開山刀把芭蕉樹的葉子砍下來擋雨;遇到山蛭鑽到襪子裡,就拿出打火機把用力吸血的蟲子燒死,再撥到一旁。



    然而,第一趟在雨林中的旅程,大夥卻無功而返。接下來幾天晚上大家聚集在大街上印度人開的茶店、或是巷口的穆斯林「嘛嘛檔」小吃攤(gerai mamak),擬定下一步的計畫。是要透過乩童詢問神明的指示呢?還是向耆老詢問更多意見?村長只說,陳亞泉的祖墳意義重大,一定要找到才行。不遠的東南亞十一國,

    看這些熱帶島國的子民們,如何從歷史的浪花中乘勢而起,找到自己的定位與方向。



    更完整的內容請見《千面東南亞》

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    Released
    2018/05/15
    Language
    Traditional Chinese
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    ID
    124906

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