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    6. 旅讀 10月號/2021 第116期
    尋味亞洲米其林

    旅讀 10月號/2021 第116期

    5.0分,2 ratings
    Publisher 旅讀 /澤宇文化
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    Released
    2021/10/01
    Language
    Traditional Chinese
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    Pages
    148
    ID
    256748
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    如今隨著自然科技與飲食文化的長足發展,五花八門的飲食評鑑制度同樣應運而生,其中最受矚目的,恐非法國原產的米其林指南莫屬──本期將從方方面面評鑑這份評鑑,帶領讀者一窺箇中堂奧!
    @更多精彩內容推薦:
    ★中華第一龍 玉出紅山
    ★山本耀司 以服裝對抗世界
    ★次文化狂歡盛宴 B站崛起
    ★晚清殘影 湯姆生東方尋奇
    .....................................................
    【編輯室報告】

    〈人間煙火,「星」花怒放〉

    副總編輯/甘炤文

    二〇一七年,馳名國際的「米其林指南」正式宣告進軍臺灣,並於隔年三月推出首期在地的評鑑指南。

    面對這項盛事,有些人早已昂首期盼,深為臺灣能進入這項歷史悠遠的評鑑系統,感到由衷的驕傲;有些人則心存芥蒂,以為這套舶來的評審標準自有其文化背景,如此圓鑿方枘,恐或難以掌握在地飲膳的神髓;更有些人磨刀霍霍,準備按圖索驥,矢志以「追星」、「摘星」作為大吃四方的終極目標。

    及至今日,米其林指南在臺灣已行之有年,普羅大眾面對這份榜單的態度,似乎也從初始狂熱的「蜜月期」進入了「冷靜期」──愈來愈多有識之士逐漸由料理口味、地方飲食文化乃至於評鑑機制設計本身等角度進行反省,而本期《旅讀》的封面故事,雖然以該項指南作為報導主題,但宗旨並不在替其搖旗助威,卻是希望透過系統化的評介、論析,與讀者共同認識這項歷時百年而不衰的評鑑制度,並從數據、資料和文獻的整理中,重新審視標榜一體適用的判準之於飲食(文化)的真確意義。

    正如同俗諺所云:「一樣米養百樣人。」「一方水土養一方人。」推擴來說,同樣的食材、料理,適口與否往往人言人殊,而個體飲食偏好的模塑與形成,自也難免受到時、地條件以及各自文化傳統等外部因素的影響(這由大部分老外對臺灣臭豆腐、豬血糕所抱持的觀感可得知);唯當普羅大眾不再依循單一、「權威」的評鑑,而能自產地、廚房和餐桌的關係脈絡中陶冶品味,鍛鑄自身審度「食事」的能力,此間所共同累積出的飲食文化底蘊,方見深厚。

    隨著疫況好轉,臺灣各縣市目前也逐漸鬆綁進出管制,而在這餐廳重新開放內用的當下,也祈願環球疫情能早日平息,人間煙火得以持續流轉……假以時日,餐飲業亦將全面回春,「星」花怒放依舊。
     
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    封面
    目錄+版權
    葉言都:六年讀史計畫──序幕
    嚴定暹:易經謙卦
    旅讀買就送
    旅讀私塾2.0
    編輯室報告
    林嘉澍:讀懂臺灣古蹟
    旅讀精選
    旅讀月曆
    旅讀講堂
    旅讀新鮮事
    鍾文音:旅讀時光第二季
    李純瑀:唐宋詞──悲歡聚散總有時
    城市思潮
    飲食關鍵詞_論庖廚
    金魚滿唐_湯姆生東方尋奇
    封面故事_尋味亞洲米其林
    特別報導_紅山古玉考
    發現心臺灣_大地縱谷農遊趣
    發現心臺灣:有在地人帶路,才叫旅行!
    老皮說史_中醫科學不科學?
    東寫西服_我是山本耀司,但你無須記得
    一年讀罷_生生死死尋夢,酸酸楚楚寫真
    試住報告_將捷金鬱金香酒店
    三旬一艸.玩味_薑黃肉桂捲
    創講堂_ B站當機,上億人一夜難眠
    精神食糧_電影:老派約會之十分必要
    精神食糧_一瞬:篁嶺曬秋
    訂閱方案A
    訂閱方案B
    旅讀特搜站
    青春國文課第二季
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    Details

    Released
    2021/10/01
    Language
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    File format
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    ID
    256748

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