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    6. 旅讀2024年10月號152期

    旅讀2024年10月號152期

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    Publisher 旅讀 /澤宇文化
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    2024/10/01
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    466242
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    《旅讀》No152|2024年10月號

    尋找天菜!

    早在荷據及明清時期,台灣便有素食人口,長期以來對素食觀念始終保持開放。如今,全台有近三百萬人茹素,約占總人口百分之十三,高居全球第三。近年來更因食安及永續議題,掀起一股以健康與環保為訴求的新蔬食風尚。無論是五星主廚、連鎖餐飲集團抑或路邊攤,蔬食料理百花齊放。你,今天吃「菜」了嗎?

    @更多精彩內容推薦:
    ★才女變腐女 台式臭豆腐也戰南北?
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    ★唐朝也怕通貨膨脹 胡椒一斤價值千金
    .....................................................
    【編輯室報告】

    〈讓我們理直氣壯地挑食吧!〉

    執行總編輯/鄺介文

    海外友人遊台,除了各色台式大菜小吃,我多半預留其中一餐予日料、一餐予蔬食,姑且不論對方有無特定宗教信仰。每當他們面露狐疑神色,我便循循善誘:「台灣是日本以外,所能吃到最好日料的地方;而台灣是包括日本在內,所能吃到最好蔬食的地方。」即便肉食獸性如我,也不時受到蔬食餐廳召喚,原因無它,就是單純好吃。

    我的蔬食啟蒙,源於一位新加坡朋友的母親。阿姨虔誠,退休生活無非參與各種進香/膜拜/修行/朝聖旅團,儘管不是完全不葷主義,一到台灣,就是指名種種素菜餐廳,縱然是再不顯眼的台式(素食)自助餐店,她也吃得津津有味。祖籍廣東的阿姨身懷挑嘴基因,東南亞美食如數家珍,唯一對於台灣五體投地的,正是「新加坡做不來這樣的素菜」。

    逐漸逐漸,我也覺得與有榮焉了起來。

    台灣天菜不單攻陷新加坡安娣(auntie)的胃,也攻陷了我這個自幼偏食的怪胎的心──全生的洋蔥與爛熟的洋蔥可吃,但不吃炒得清脆的;全生的黃瓜與熟爛的黃瓜可吃,但不吃半生初熟的;全生的茄子與爛熟的茄子倒是不吃,裹上味噌略略炭烤的可以;青椒黃椒橘椒紅椒那是萬萬不可,無論是生是熟,乃至一同拌炒,因而沾染上了「青椒氣」的其餘食材(包括披薩)也一併不吃──然而一旦步入台灣引以為傲的蔬食餐廳,彷彿洋蔥黃瓜茄子都不再嚇人了。

    使我想起年輕氣盛的自己,每當見到「肉食造型」的素菜,總覺不置可否,那些特意做出肉的樣貌、肉的口感、肉的香氣的料理,對於素食主義者豈非一種詐欺(或者引誘)?只是現在,我不再那麼憤世嫉俗,樂意通過另種角度將心比心。特意做出肉的樣貌口感香氣,也許只是期待藉此讓人放下成見,嘗試看看台灣天菜的魅力。

    曾經見過一張迷因,小朋友甲問:「為什麼大人都不會挑食?」小朋友乙答:「因為大人可以挑選自己喜歡的東西買來吃。」令人莞爾。我想,台灣天菜的魅力在於,無論如何挑食的人,都能挑到適合自己的食。
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    封面
    目錄+版權
    旅讀買就送
    編輯室報告
    旅讀精選
    讀心塾_李靖文終身學習打造致富體質
    旅讀講堂
    旅讀月曆
    旅讀新鮮事
    旅讀旅團_鄺介文 煲山煲海煲香港
    愛閱_李開周 蜀國三兩事研學交流
    城市思潮
    旅讀私塾_梅朵 中國古典小說六講
    戲說古早_《唐朝詭事錄》一斤胡椒換幾雞
    偏向山行_走入大清帝國官道:金字碑古道
    封面故事_尋找天菜
    專題報導_喀什再發現
    專題報導_尋茶福建
    特別報導_爆改江南老市場
    主編帶路_越南越北越好玩
    跟我走_非典型羅馬假期
    中華快易通_溪底大木匠師王益順
    臺味江湖_今晚來一盤台式臭豆腐
    創講堂_無性別潮時尚,我穿我主張
    漢藥豆知識_雄赳赳氣昂昂的「地龍」,原來竟是⋯⋯?
    一幅遊畫_行李與心裡滿載時光美學
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